Rakibolana sy Rakipahalalana malagasy :

The Union Jack hoisted again — Congregation of Christian Converts — London Missionary Society — Reception by the King in the Tranovola — Anaty Rova — Tomb of the first Radama — The King and Queen — Rainilairivony — Ambobipotsy — Palace at Soanirana — Mahamasina — Ambohidzanahary — Troops Drilling — Mahazaorivo — Procession of the King — Anosi Lake and Palace — Grand Fete given by the French — N. R. V. — Singing and Clapping of Hands — Dinner with the Commander-in-chief — Presents delivered to the King — Nampahamarinana — The Vorondolo — Rahaniraka — Administration of Justice — Market — Diner with Rahaniraka — Mary — Arrival of the Missionaries — Sermon by Mr. Ellis in the School-house — National Games — Tomb of Rainihairo — Mustering of Troops.

Saturday, August 9th.— The King having intimated through his minister that we might hoist the British flag, early this morning we made arrangements for the same. A guard -of honour, band, and a vast amount of incongruously dressed officials came down at eleven o’clock; the General’s palanquin poles, eighteen feet long, being lashed together and fastened to the supports of the verandah, made a very fair temporary flagstaff. The officer commanding the troops begged the General to give them the word of command to present arms, which he did with due solemnity, while Captain Anson hauled up the Union Jack, the band playing “ God save the Queen.” The north batteries fired a salute of twenty-one guns in honour of the British flag being again hoisted in Madagascar. It had been hauled down thirty-four years before by Mr. Lyall, November 12th, 1828. The British flag was first hoisted in Antananarivo by Mr. Hastie, October 1820. After the ceremony we entered the house, and entertained the officers with champagne and other refreshments, and the usual toasts of Radama and Victoria were drunk with all honours. We were informed that the populace were unwilling to allow foreign flags to be unfurled in the capital, and that it was probable that they might make an attempt to haul it down. However, we saw no symptom of any such feeling on their part. In the afternoon we got a mast forty feet high fixed in the ground ; and changing the flag to this, made it a conspicuous object for many a mile.

On the General’s arrival at Antananarivo, he found the card of Commandant Dupré had been left for him, but the Commandant did not call upon him personally. This afternoon the General sent me to take his card, and find out if the French Commodore intended to call first, or whether he expected the General to do so, and to intimate that the Commodore ought to be the first visitor, as his rank was inferior to that of the General. Jules Dupre is only a Capitaine de Vaisseau, and as Commodore should rank as Brigadier. The Frenchman would not, however, see it in this light, but claimed equal rank with the Major-General, and on account of priority of arrival expected General Johnstone to call upon him first.

In the evening at about nine o’clock, a gun is fired, after which time the inhabitants are forbidden to leave their houses, fires and lights are extinguished, and the watchmen keep bawling to one another to show that they are on the alert. These functionaries assemble at a small parade-ground opposite the tomb of Rainimahay. They continue their cries till daylight.

This gentleman is chief of the mission sent to Madagascar by the London Missionary Society. He first arrived in 1853, but he has returned to England more than once since that time. He is an Independent minister, but an earnest worker. He preaches to the King every Sunday, but as we have not yet been presented to his Majesty, we are unable to attend his chapel to-day. Mr. Ellis, however, invited the General and myself to accompany him to a part of the town called Ambatonakanga, where he was about to address a large congregation of native Christians.

Mounting our chairs and passing the head-quarters of the French mission, we arrive in time at a guard-house, beyond which, in the time of the late Queen, no pigs, goats, or onions might pass, as they were considered unclean, and therefore forbidden by the idols. The road below brought us to Ambatonakanga, a suburb inhabited principally by mechanics. We found here a long shed, and a congregation of some 1200 people assembled singing hymns, and engaged in devotion. We entered the rude chapel, the people making way for us, and sat down at a table in the centre of it. The building was crowded, and the entrances blocked up by people unable to obtain places. Mr. Ellis preached to them in Malagasy, and our interpreter, Andronisa, also addressed them. It was very interesting to see, in the midst of a town but lately the very centre of idolatry, so large a congregation of Christians, and to think that at the same moment in six other parts of the town there were similar congregations of almost equal magnitude. They are in the habit of meeting early in the morning, and every Sunday at daybreak crowds may be seen in holiday and bright clothing, walking towards their respective chapels, where they remain continuously singing and praying, or listening to exhortations and sermons delivered by their elders for the whole day; they go in and out as they please, but the major portion do not return to their houses till dusk. To account for this apparent enthusiasm, it must be borne in mind that all the Hovas are remarkably fond of singing, and music, and crowded assemblies. They hold kabarys and councils on the most trivial occasions, and are very proud of displaying their powers of oratory in public. When at home, they are in the habit of sitting for hours together singing and talking ; not having much to do, they pass the day squatted either on the matted floors of their houses, or basking in the sun in their courtyards, or, strange to say, perched on the top of the wall that overlooks the street. Here they gossip, watch with listlessness the coming and going of passers-by, salute their acquaintance, make satirical remarks on their enemies, or chaff the strangers.

To people like this Sunday is a great fète-day. The excitement, amusement, and last, but not least, the excuse for putting on fine clothes, are great inducements to go to any public gathering. So that their crowding to the chapels every Sunday must not altogether be placed to the score of religion. But of what congregation in England could not the same be said? I may remark, too, that the Hovas certainly do not feel that weariness which is often exhibited after a long sermon by the majority 'of British audiences. Both the Christian and heathen Hovas will sing the psalm-tunes for the sake of the music, for which they have a natural taste, but often without a thought of the words they are using. Sometimes on entering a house the whole family will strike up the Old Hundredth as an appropriate compliment to us, and be rather surprised than otherwise at our not joining in chorus. In English drawing-rooms young ladies who sing pretty ballads would be much astonished if they were expected to feel all the absurd sentiment expressed by the words of their songs, and so the Hovas are wont to sing sacred hymns and psalms, but consider the words they are uttering as something totally foreign to the matter. Very many of them, in renouncing their superstitious faith in the idols, pretty nearly renounced all religion. Rahaniraka himself, on my inquiring about the progress of Christianity among the Hovas, said, “ Christianity is a good thing for the people,—for the lower orders,—it is a good thing for them certainly, hut what good is it to us ?” (meaning the high Honours)—“we do very well without it.”

Nevertheless, that there are many sincere aud devoted Christians there is no doubt, and the patience and meekness with which they have endured persecution, chains, and even martyrdom, will always form a glorious page in the history of the Church of Madagascar.

There are at least three thousand Hovas professing Christianity in the capital at this time. This is entirely owing to the former and present exertions of the London Missionary Society. This Society first sent out missionaries to the coast in 1818. They reached the capital in 1820, and were cordially welcomed by the reigning King, who seemed delighted at the prospect of learning from them many useful arts. These missionaries learnt the Malagasy language, and translated the Bible into it. On the death of the King, however, great persecutions of the Christians followed.*

* Since the above was written, missions have been established on the coast in connexion with the diocese of Mauritius and its dependencies, under the able direction of Dr. Ryan, the Bishop of that colony, who, with great judgment, has not interfered with the operations of the London Missionary Society at the capital under the Rev. W. Ellis, but confined his operations to the coast for the present, where such labour was much wanted.

Monday, 11 th August, 1862.—This day was appointed for our official reception by the King at the Silver Palace.

Accordingly at eleven o’clock, we put on full uniform, and proceeded in chairs to the gateway of the palace* Here we dismounted and ascended the steps to the gate; the doors were opened, and we were ushered into the courtyard,—and a noble courtyard it was; the Great Palace rising 120 feet, the white massive timbers striking the beholder by their ponderous proportions. On the left of this, and at right angles, was the Silver Palace ( Trano-vola), smaller, but still a fine building, and of greater finish than its huge brother. To the right of this was the tomb of the first Radama, and we were directed to take off our hats in passing it. The troops, with their band, were drawn up in two sides of a square. Three hundred men on parade composed the palace-guard. They presented arms to the General, the band playing the “ British Grenadiers.”

* The view of the palace-gate, Antananarivo, is sketched from the house called Maromoditra. The principal entrance to the palace is at the northern end of the Anty-Rova, or palace-yard. It consists of an arched gateway, approached by a flight of twelve stone steps; the ground on which the palace stands being ten feet above the level of the road. Under this arch lounge the guard. Two sentries with muskets and bayonets fixed, and crossing one another, bar the entry, and no person is allowed to pass except with the permission of the officer óf the guard,—unless he be an officer of the palace. This gateway is surmounted by the “ Voroma-hery,” (the powerful bird of Madagascar.)

The strange-shaped piece of wood-work, painted red and black, was originally the frame of a looking-glass, and is now by no means ornamental.

The gate has a lightning-conductor connected with it, as indeed has every building of any importance in Antananarivo.

On each side of the gateway is a small brass field-piece, the bracket trails of which are more adapted for their cramped position than for service in the field.

The roof covered with bardeaux in the foreground is that of the practising room of the King’s brass band. Opposite to it is the house of the keeper of the idols.

In the background is seen the northern end of the Great Palace, 120 feet in height, and painted white from top to bottom, with the exception of the balustrades of its extensive verandahs, which are painted red.

At the gate of the Silver Palace we were met by Rahaniraka, who conducted us into the reception-room, where the King and Queen were awaiting us. The King was dressed in English uniform, the Queen sat on his left. They rose when we entered. The General made a short speech, presented Queen Victoria’s letter, and introduced the other members of the mission. The Bishop then presented a very handsome Bible, and made a long speech. This was one of our Queen’s gifts, and was presented before the others, as the Bishop was anxious to leave Antananarivo as soon as possible. Captain Anson next addressed His Majesty, informing him that all the presents had not as yet arrived. The King is a small man, with an olive complexion, but nearly as fair as any European who has been long in a tropical country. He has a good forehead, short curly hair, small features, hooked nose, and short moustache. He deports himself amazingly well, and on public occasions is dignified and self-possessed. He is decidedly the best behaved of all the Hovas we have seen, and being neat and well dressed, is a nearer approach to a European gentleman, than one could have imagined the king of a barbarous country to be. Queen Rabodo is not at all unlike the picture of her in Ellis (page 413), but rather overlooking, and on this occasion better dressed than she there appears. The likeness of the King on the same page gives a very bad idea of him. The Queen held by her left hand her little adopted daughter, grand-daughter of the first Radama’s sister ; to the child’s left again, stood Tahiri, her adopted son, and heir to the throne, as the Queen has no children. On the left of the children, and in front, were the court-ladies, nieces and daughters of Rambousalam and Ramonja. Ramonja was the prince of the Antsianka, and having been the first of all the chieftains to acknowledge Radama I. as king, ranks next to the blood royal.

Rambousalam, who died six months ago, was the adopted son of the late Queen, before Rakoto Radama, the present King, was born. The present King was not born for several months after the death of his father, and this gave Rambousalam a sort of claim to the throne. On the death of the Queen, a party tried to secure the succession for Rambousalam, a proceeding which would have effectually closed Madagascar to Europeans; failing, however, the chief was kept in honourable confinement, and most of his adherents were imprisoned in distant parts of the country.

Rambousalam either starved himself to death, or was murdered, though certainly not by the wish of Radama. The King and Queen took his children under their protection, and now on the eve of the coronation have proclaimed a general amnesty, and released all his adherents.

On the right of the King stood Rainilairivony, the second commander-in-chief. His elder brother, prime minister and first commander-in-chief—both offices being merged in one—was laid up with the gout, and consequently not present. Rainilairivony is very prepossessing in appearance. He had been a great favourite with the late Queen, and has always been friendly disposed to Europeans, in which respect he is unlike his brother, who is suspicious and jealous of strangers. The King now seated himself and begged us all to do the same. General conversation ensued, Rahaniraka translating. Behind the King were several secretaries and aides-de-camp, all in rather gorgeous apparel, trousers with gold stripes, French cocked hats, with an extra amount of lace, green frock-coats, gold lace, and pouch - belts. Presently refreshments were offered, and champagne handed round, and soon after this we took leave and quitted the palace with great ceremony.

In the afternoon some of us walked through the principal streets towards the southern extremity of the hill. Here we came upon the execution-ground, called Ambohipotsy, where so lately the native Christians had testified, as the martyrs of old, to the truths in which they had placed their trust. To an English mind it was scarcely possible, in this age of the world, to realise the hard, dry fact that that stump of wood was the foot of the cross, and that other the transverse beam, on which our Christian brethren had been crucified; and that the bleached, dry bones in the ditch were those of men and women who had died but a few years before for the name of the Saviour; that on the spot where we now stood, on the crest of the hill, and surveyed one of the noblest panoramas in the world, had knelt these martyrs, whilst a spear was driven through their loins, inflicting mortal wounds that did not kill at once, but made the wretched sufferers roll in torture into the ditch below, with the spears still fixed in their bodies, while not even the nearest or dearest relative dared to soothe their dying struggles, or evince by a look of sympathy a doubt of the justice of the punishment. A church, it is said, is shortly to be built on this spot, and the bones of the martyrs collected and placed under it, while the fragments of the cross are to be built into the walls.*

* It is not known by what means the idea of crucifixion as a mode of punishment was adopted hy the Malagasy. It is possible that it may have been derived from the Arabs or from Scripture history. The wooden frame used in the place of a cross resembled a gallows. To this the malefactor is nailed while it remains flat upon the earth, after which it is lifted up with its miserable burden, and fixed in two holes made in the ground for the purpose. Here the sufferer is exposed until he dies of exhaustion, hunger, and thirst, in great agony. Some criminals have remained for hours in the gaze of the multitude. A fire is sometimes lighted to windward of them by which they and the cross are consumed together.

To the south of us lay the Palace of Soanirana with its circular park and avenue of aviavy ; to the west an immense conical hill, called Ambohidzanahary, remarkable for gigantic trenches cut in it, the purpose for which they were excavated is doubtful. Some assign as the reason that the great Radama, by whose order they were dug, wished to level the whole hill and failed in that herculean task; others say that they were simply dug by the troops for practice in digging entrenchments and scaling their sides. Beyond to the south and south-east was a magnificent panoramic view stretching away to the mountains of Ankaratra and the country of the Betsiles.

August 12th.—Mounted on a pony, lent me by Raini-kotavao, one of the richest men in the island, I accompany the General, Bishop, and Meller, in their chairs with Rabearana and Rabezandrina, both thirteenth Honours, and both capable of speaking English well. The two last acting as our guides were mounted on small horses bred in the country. They took us by the north road as far as Ambatonakanga, where we turned, first to the west and then to the south, and by a circuitous route reached Ma-hamasina, the large Champ de Mars, to the north of which is a small piece of ground where foreigners are buried. Among the graves are those of the late Mr. Hastie and of several missionaries, who had the misfortune to die here far from their Mends and home.

Crossing Mahamasina, we passed close to the sacred stone of Madagascar on which the kings and queens are crowned. We then ascended a slight hill forming a kind of isthmus between the heights of the town and the hill Ambohidzanahary. The parade-ground measures some 800 by 500 yards. We now went under the rocks of Ambohipotsy, the dreary execution-ground, and crossed some rice-fields, watered by a small stream. Still keeping in a southerly direction, we passed through a street of booths forming a bazaar for the accommodation of the troops who parade at Soanirana.

We at last came to the palace of that name (which signifies “a place well suited for inquiry.”) It is built on a circular plateau, the site formerly of a low hill cut away and levelled by Radama. Round this is a double avenue of the Madagascar fig-tree; and in the centre is the palace, a large, low building, entirely of wood, with spacious verandahs and large shingle roofs, and with the initials R. R. (Radama Rex) entwined in the decorations. There were about 2000 men on parade, and being drilled in a large hollow square facing inwards. They went through the manual exercises tolerably. They had no scabbards for their bayonets, and at the word “ Unfix bayonets,” threw down those weapons, making their points stick in the ground at their feet.

We entered the palace, which is very handsome. The ascent to the upper story is by a curious winding staircase of very broad and shallow steps twisting right and left. We next proceeded to the King’s country-seat at Maha-zaorivo, the lake and gardens of which appeared most inviting. The gardens are not very extensive, but are prettily situated near the River Ikiopa. There is a flower-garden, in which cabbages are conspicuous; a small vineyard, where the vines are trained over rude trellis-work; an orchard of peaches, and large plantation of banana-trees. There are a few rofia palms, planted date-trees, and one very peculiar vacoa, besides limes and fig-trees. The garden-house is a comfortable bungalow with three small rooms and a large verandah, kitchens, outhouses, &c. Attached to it are fishing and summer-houses. Between the lake and the river is a half-finished stone-house, with arches supported on columns all round. The stone-masons were at work upon it. It is intended when finished for a banqueting-hall. Having examined all, we returned home. In the afternoon I accompanied Rainikotavao to his country-house, a mile out of the town to the north. Here he is building a handsome stone vault as a tomb for himself and his family. Caldwell’s party has arrived with the presents.

August 13th.—This morning Meller and I went down towards the large parade ground at Mahamasina, and met the King walking with his court and guards in a long procession. The guards,¹ about 200 in number, in white undress with fixed bayonets, enclosed the procession, forming a hollow square round them. In the procession the band went first, then the court ladies and gentlemen, two and two, and arm in arm, the ladies in gorgeous evening dresses of the brightest colours, without bonnets, but any amount of wreaths and artificial flowers by way of head-dresses; fortunate was the envied owner of a crinoline. Shoes and stockings were rather at a discount, but each possessed a parasol, or an umbrella, of the gayest possible hue, except red, which is the prerogative of royal blood alone.

The first regiment formed by the great Radama was entirely of the Clan “ Voromahery ” (a powerful bird), a term applied to the capital and the district about three miles around it. It consisted of 3000 men. These composed the King’s body-guard. The regiment of Voromahery has also the name of Fotsy-sy-mainty (“ the white and black.”) At the present time this regiment consists of 1200 men, and their rendezvous is at Mahamasina and Soanirana. It is the crack regiment of Madagascar; has the commander-in-chief for its colonel, and answers to the household troops at home. It furnishes a daily guard to the palace of 300 men, of which 200 move with the King wherever he goes.

The court gentlemen were dressed mostly in plain clothes. Red trousers seemed fashionable, and yellow waistcoats with black or blue frock-coats or evening dress-coats. Broad beavers, gold-lace caps, and wide-awakes, were worn indiscriminately. Several of them affected the same style of cap as the King wore, which consisted of the hide of the hump of an ox tanned, and shaped something between a jockey cap and the French kepi. These caps they use to drink out of when they are thirsty, and when they are on a journey they eat out of them too. The King himself was dressed in a suit of clothes all of stout hand-woven, undyed, native silk. He was in the rear of the procession, surrounded by his staff in plain clothes, and with a few spearmen on either side. Behind the files of soldiers followed a crowd of singing women (Tsiman-doavavy ), the wives of the guards, keeping up wild choruses accompanied by vigorous clapping of hands. The roads, walls, and houses on both sides of the line of march, were crowded with people who kept up a cry of hoo-hoo-oo-oo-oo-oo... like so many humble bees whilst the procession passed * this cry is their mode of cheering.

Crossing Mahamasina, the King visited the Queen’s palace on the Lake Anosi. This small summer, or fishing palace, is built on a little island in the centre of the lake, and from this spot the western view of Antananarivo is very striking. The opposite view is taken from the northwestern corner of the lake near the mills of Soraky. In the foreground is the island with its European - looking buildings, each protected by a lightning-conductor, arid surrounded by a garden on a raised terrace, enclosed within a stone balustrade. Beyond the lake can be seen the noble parade-ground of Mahamasina, on which is raised the circular white plaster platform which guards the sacred coronation-stone. A canopy is being erected over it in preparation for the approaching coronation of Radama II. The overhanging rock immediately over the coronation-stone is the famous Tarpeian rock of Antananarivo, over which condemned criminals were hurled, and where many Christians have suffered martyrdom. On the right is part of the hill Ambohidzanahary, and between this and the town is the road to Soanirana Palace. In the centre, crowning the whole, is the great Palace of Manjaka Miadara, the Tranovola, or Silver Palace, to the left, and the houses of the judges, nobles, and principal officers of the Government.

On the highest part of the town, seen just over the Palace of Anosi, is a signal station, with a cannon mounted to be fired in case of alarm ; it is marked by a small tree. On the southern extremity of the hill, in the right distance, is the execution-ground of Ambohipotsy, distinguished by an upright boulder of granite.

When the King had paid his visit to this palace he returned to Mahamasina. Here he and his party sat down. Most of the French mission were here with Commandant Dupre and the French Consul, Mons. Laborde. Some of Caldwell’s party and myself represented the English nation. We were soon on good terms with the young French officers, and though our knowledge of French and their knowledge of English was limited, the entente cordiale was a cure for all that. The King was very anxious to see the Europeans ride, so we mounted as many of his horses as were there, and raced much to his edification.

After this we all accompanied the King to a small house on the borders of the parade-ground, where we sat down on the grass, and Vermouth was handed about. We then walked up to the palace, but it was so dreadfully hot in the narrow, dusty lanes, that I made my escape and went home after being invited to dine with the King. In obedience to this invitation I went about half-past three to the stone school-house, where they had already sat down to dinner. Curry and rice formed the chief part of the entertainment. When the tables were cleared away the band struck up, and they danced a sort of quadrille. Afterwards followed some faster dance in which we joined. The name of my partner, a lady of the blackest and ugliest description, was Razandkazana; however, she was a capital dancer. I left very early with the French Colonel of Marines in time to find our own party at dinner when I returned to our head-quarters.

party. He amused his native visitors by showing them small balloons filled with hydrogen gas. To-morrow is the fète day of the French Emperor, so we have all received invitations to attend a grand banquet given in honour of it by the French Mission and Consul. We are also invited to assist at a grand mass at which the King and Queen will be present, but our good Bishop particularly requests that we will decline this part of the invitation.

August 15th, St. Louis.—This being the féte day of the Emperor Napoleon the French Mission hoisted their Tricolor with great ceremony, and the celebration of mass followed. At three o’clock we attended the banquet given by the French Plenipotentiary and Mons. Laborde, the French Consul, to which we were all invited to meet their Majesties. The banquet was set out in a large marquee in the courtyard of Laborde’s house. It was tastefully arranged, a handsome cold collation, with plenty of plate, cut-glass, flowers, and champagne. The tent was decorated with French, Malagasy, and English flags, and with the initials N. R. V. encircled with wreaths at regular intervals.

The guests were received in the adjoining house. Their Majesties had already arrived. After paying our respects to them and to our French hosts, the whole party adjourned to the marquee. The King and Queen sat at the top of the long table, the Commandant, Jules Dupre, on the King’s right, and the General on the Queen’s left. After a long peroration Dupre proposed the health of the King of Madagascar together with the healths of Victoria and Napoleon. The King and the General replied, the former in Malagasy, translated easily and readily by La-borde, the latter in French. After this, and a little more speechifying, we commenced an attack upon the viands, and everybody’s spirits rose considerably. Stiffness and dulness soon wore off, and eating, and drinking, and entente cordiale, were the order of the day. I had a good position between the Commandant of the island of St. Mary’s* and Soumaigne, a French trader, both of them had known Madagascar for many years. Behind the chairs stood Malagasy female slaves dressed in white, with horse-hair tails at the end of long rods to brush away the flies on the table. French and Malagasy servants hurried about replenishing the glasses, &c., and a regular fusillade of champagne corks was kept up with great spirit. Meantime the band outside played Malagasy and European airs. The intervals between each selection were filled up by the barbarous songs of the Tsimiriry (singing women), who squatted like sea-fowl in great numbers outside, singing odes in honour of Radama and Rabodo, and their forefathers, and keeping up an accompaniment of Kentish fire with their hands. The door of the tent was guarded by meu with -spears, and double sentries with their muskets crossed. The remaining guards formed a cordon round the courtyard, lounging, standing or sitting, with bare feet, white blouses and trousers, black pouches, and blue bands round their caps.

When it got dusk the King and Queen arose, and we followed their example, and the whole party adjourned to the house which was brilliantly lighted up. Dance music struck up. The Queen opened the ball with Commandant Dupré, and dancing succeeded for an hour or more

* In the possession of the French, on the east coast of Madagascar, and north of Foule Point.

The Queen’s maids of honour, got up in splendid ball-dresses, made capital partners, and went through the intricacies of a quadrille, or whirled in a galop, much better than we could have believed. The conversation naturally was limited to a few sentences, generally appropriate compliments learned a moment before from some of the interpreters.

About ten o’clock the Queen’s filanzan stopped the way, and this broke up the party, which formed in procession and accompanied the King and Queen back to the palace. As it was an hour after gun-fire, the whole town was deserted and dark, but at the sound of the King’s band of music the inhabitants rushed out of their houses all along our road with torches and lighted bundles of dry grass and straw. This rude impromptu illumination had a fine effect. Wherever the procession passed, men and women were ready with torches and firebrands, lighting them just as the head of the procession reached them, and extinguishing them directly after the rear of it had passed. The fixed bayonets and the brass instruments with the gilt appointments and accoutrements of the King and his court flashed in the red torchlight. The Queen and her attendants, whose gay ball-dresses were now covered with rich coloured silk lambas, were borne in their filanzans, each surrounded by white-robed female slaves. The rattle of the drums with the clang of cymbals, and the ringing brass instruments, made the old streets rattle again with martial music, the whole forming a splendid though barbaric pageant. The rear was brought up by the screaming and clap - clapper, clap - clap, of the singing women, while the cheering of the crowds that lined the walls and houses, each person waving a flaming brand, was taken up in succession from street to street like a rolling wave, “ Trarantitra Ts-a-ra-a-a ... a Tomp ... qu-a-a Veloma Ra-da-a ... ama!”

We left the procession and crowd at that part of the road nearest to our mess, and were glad to escape and have a quiet cup of coffee.

August 16th.—This morning, Mr. Pakenham, the English Consul, and his wife arrived from the coast; Anson and I went to meet them, and brought them to breakfast. They complained (and well the lady might) of the fatigues of the journey, and their Marmites appear to have been mutinous.

In the afternoon we went to dine at the Commander-in-chief’s by invitation from the King. As the King is unable to entertain during the year of mourning observed after the decease of his mother, he orders one of his chief officers to represent him and show hospitality to any distinguished strangers who may visit the capital; and he himself sends contributions towards the expenses of the feast. On this occasion the King sent $30, and the same number of bottles of wine,—a very small proportion of the expense incurred by our noble host on this occasion.

At three o’clock, the fashionable dinner hour in Antananarivo, we found ourselves at the house of Rainilairi-vone, from the gateway of whose courtyard the opposite view is taken.

Rainilairivone received us most hospitably, and led the way to a fine banqueting-hall, round which ran an arched gallery. The arches and cornices were ornamented with small looking-glasses close together, producing a glittering effect. A magnificent dining-table, twenty feet long by twelve feet broad, with the corners rounded off, stood in the centre, covered with a profusion of candelabra, épergnes, and vases of flowers, with dishes of every description of fish, flesh, and fowl, sent up in a style worthy of Gunter. All the dishes on the table were cold. A large company of Hova ladies and gentlemen were awaiting us, and directly after our arrival we sat down, in number about thirty. Soup was handed round, then rice, and endless dishes of hot curries, hashes, and stews. Rice was eaten with every dish. It was very tedious, and the conversation with the dark beauties at one’s side rather flagged, so we were heartily glad when it was over.

Sunday, August 17th.—The Bishop performed divine service at our head-quarters. All the English in the place were present. In the afternoon Anson and I had a stroll. We were amused with a little incident that occurred. Walking towards Ambohipotsi, we were met and stopped by Ramanarika (the King’s private secretary, who speaks English well), who said that Miss Razandkazana, a lady I had danced with several times, was on her way to make me. a present of fruit. The young lady then appeared herself, with two servants carrying baskets containing pineapples, oranges, and vegetables. I made my best English bow and my best Malagasy compliments, and the fruit being sent to our house we continued our walk.

August 18th.—This morning the Bishop and Dr. Mel-ler started to return to Tamatave, the former labouring under severe illness.

The presents for the King and Queen having now all arrived, were arranged in the Silver Palace, and to-day was appointed for the presentation. They were well selected, and consisted of silver-gilt goblets and tankard, a full-length portrait of H.M. Queen Victoria, a gold-mounted Wilkinson rifle, scarlet silk umbrella, a coronation robe for the Queen, a field-marshal’s complete equipment, and a set of musical instruments for a band of twenty-five performers.

At noon we of the staff attended the General to the palace, and after waiting some time, Radama and Rabodo entered arm-in-arm, followed by a few attendants. After salutations and compliments, they examined the presents minutely and were excessively pleased. The Queen, with great complacency, tried on the robe to see how it would become her, and the King seemed most taken by the musical instruments.

August 19th.— Drew a view of the capital as seen from our mess-room. Visited the Rock of Nampahamarinana, from which criminals convicted of witchcraft or sorcery were formerly hurled. In more recent times, when Christianity was looked upon as a similar crime, many converted Hovas, both men and women, here fell victims to relentless persecution, and were dashed to pieces on the broken rocks below. There is a slide at the top for a few feet, then the rock overhangs a sheer precipice of ninety feet, then again there is a steep descent for another hundred feet or so, and at the bottom some small peach-trees mark the exact spot where the mangled bodies were arrested in their hideous roll. The interest attaching to this spot was much increased by the fact, that we were accompanied by some who had been eye-witnesses, of these fearful scenes,— men who had seen their friends and relations perish by this cruel death, and had stolen after nightfall to bury their bodies out of reach of the wild dogs and wild cats which abound among these rocks.

On our return by the rocks under the saluting battery, we found Caldwell and his party shooting the white owls which come out towards evening. The owl is a bird of evil omen, known by the name of Vorondolo. At first the natives looked with the extremest horror upon the attempts of the Europeans to kill these birds, and expected to see some dire vengeance overtake them on the spot. Finding, however, that the “ Whites ” suffered no harm, the Hova lads took courage, and will now bring us any amount of owls, snakes, chameleons, lizards, caterpillars, butterflies, &c. We kept some owls a long time alive in our mess-room.

August 20th.— We had expressed a wish to hear some good singing, so the King this evening sent down his singing-class, under the leadership of his private secretary. We had requested them to come after dinner, but long before dinner we found our court-yard crowded with them. As soon as we had finished, however, we invited them in, and they sang their principal national songs, accompanied by the usual clapping of hands.

August 2\st.— The chief incident of the day has been seeing the King administer justice. A law-court in Madagascar is literally a court, for there is no house, and all the cases are tried sub Jove. The system seems to be that the twelve judges, so called, form a jury, and decide all cases brought before them. If they do not agree, the case is referred to the King. Jury, criminals, and witnesses, go at once before him. The King hears the case, decides off-hand, and dispenses judgment. When we arrived, one of these cases had just been concluded, and the court was being cleared. The King wore a rough undyed sort of silk suit, and a hump skin cap, and was sitting on a rude iron chair outside a half-finished stone building.

August 22nd—An invitation was received for our whole party to dine with Ra Haniraka to-morrow. To-day we visited the Auzouma, or Friday weekly market: this is attended from all parts of the country, and is capitally supplied with broad-tailed sheep, oxen, turkeys, &c. A quotation of the current prices will give a good idea of the expenses of housekeeping at the capital:—

Rice per bushel, Turkeys, each, Geese, do. Ducks, each. Fowls, five for Bullocks,

We gave for a fattened sheep a loso (half-a-dollar), a kirobo, and a sikajy, about 3s. 6d. in English money. A cow with a young calf cost 4 dollars ; and as to pigs, from two to four might be bought for a single dollar.

Besides these articles there were pine-apples, grapes, sugar-cane, cotton, manioc, sweet potatoes, European ditto, bananas, bundles of bamboos, papyrus sold by weight, silk in cocoons, a dollar’s weight for a dollar, spun silk and coarse silk, ground nuts, cray-fish, locusts, gums, all kinds of pottery, hardware, cotton cloths, rabannas, lainbas, basket-work, filanzans, hats and caps, glass bottles, rude knives, forks, horn spoons, and scissors. Agricultural instruments of all sorts were there; pails, brooms, &c.

August 25th.—While at dinner got a letter from Ra Haniraka, stating that the King wished to see me. I accordingly go to supper with Radama at Ambohitsimbona. We have a long private interview. He wishes me to stày with him as aide-de-camp when the rest of the mission has returned!

August 27th.—This morning the Queen sends us a present of fruit. I must here allude to a delicate circumstance ! The Queen being old and childless, the King, it must be known, does not live with her, but has a left-handed wife called Mary, who* lives at Ambohitsimbona. This lady is in reality his consort, though never recognised in public. She was confined of a son the day after we entered the capital. She is married pro formá to the King’s chief Menamaso, or Red Eye. The Menamaso, or Red Eyes, are a party of young noblemen, who form a sort of guard of honour for the King, and never lose sight of him. They are always on the watch against treachery and intrigue. Mary, who has now lived w^Tith the King for many years, was most devoted and active in saving the persecuted Christians from death during the late Queen’s reign. She frequently hid them and supplied them with the means of escape or with money. Mr. Ellis and that school of missionaries will not recoguise Mary at all; but I believe the Bishop of Mauritius wishes to bring about a divorce between the King and Queen, which would allow him to marry her. The King consults her on every question of importance.

It was debated a long time whether we ought to visit Mary, at last the General settled that it would be polite, and accordingly he paid her a visit to-day and made her a handsome present.

of us all, Tallin (the watched one), the Queen’s adopted child, was taken from the care of Mr. Ellis, who has hitherto had charge of him, and handed over without warning to the Jesuits, who have established a school here. This was owing to the influence of Laborde. The General spoke to Dupré about it, but he declared that the affair was quite beyond his province. To-day we explored a part of the town to the east of Ambatonakanga beyond Andohalo, where, curiously enough, the King is not allowed to enter.*

General relative to what I am to do, and what his wishes are, in the event of my staying behind in Madagascar. The King continues to urge it, but I tell him I am Queen Victoria’s servant, and without her permission cannot enter his service.

August 30th.—A party of missionaries, sent out by the London Missionary Society, arrived to-day, Mr. and Mrs. Toy, Dr. and Mrs. Davidson, Mr. Stagg, and Mr. Duffus. I breakfasted very early and set off in my chair with my bearers to meet them. The ladies of the party were dreadfully knocked up by the fatiguing journey. Their houses had been prepared for them by Mr. Ellis, on the same site where years ago the former missionaries were established.

September 1st.—To-day we arranged some games to come off at Mahamasina. At eleven o’clock the King and his court arrived on the ground. We picked teams of Marmites and made them race with palanquins round the Champ de Mars; next followed a flat race, and then a race for boys. We had also steeple-chases, and a canoe-race on Lake Anosi, whither we adjourned. Crowds came to witness The King was much amused, and much astonished that none of the French sailors ventured to race against the English soldiers !

* “ The origin of this is, that when “ Rad urn a'a ancestor Andrianjaka stormed Tananarivo, he drove the chieftain of that place into the northeast part of the town, where he put him to death. After which the people surrendered to him, on condition that neither he nor his descendants would ever ascend to that part of the town where their chieftain was killed ; and to the present time the custom is strictly adhered to, no member of the royal family ever venturing to go there.”—Ellis.

In the afternoon the King sent for me, and introduced me to Mary ; she is very intelligent, but not at all good-looking, according to our ideas.

September 3rd.—This evening we entertain at mess the King, the Commander-in-chief, and Ra Haniraka.

Friday, September 5th.—Attend the levée. Witness a family kabary outside the small house where the King and Queen breakfast. Their Majesties addressed the people in turn from a little window, from which you could only see their heads and shoulders, the people sitting round in a semicircle, while the elders address the King and Queen in turn.

Sunday, September 7th.—We followed our usual Sunday practice of attending divine service at the school-house of Ambohitsimbona, where Ellis preaches before the King. The court were all present, but w^Te waited some time for the King, who was detained by the French Consul about the treaty. The room in which the service was held is about thirty feet by twenty. The grandees sat all round the room on long benches; the softer, if not fairer sex occupied themselves in chewing snuff and expectorating with Yankee-like precision and ability. A pulpit stood in one corner, from which, as soon as the King had entered, Mr. Ellis preached a sermon in Malagasy; interrupting the course of it now and then to chide the inattention or sleepiness of some of the congregation, who seemed utterly indifferent to everything except the singing, in which all joined with more vigour than harmony.

September 3th.—To-day we had horse-races round the park at Soanirana Palace; as few of the horses could be persuaded to go in the same direction, the result was amusing, if not exactly satisfactory; then followed more palanquin races, into the fun and spirit of which the crowds fully entered. The French were all present with the King and ourselves in the large verandahs of the palace, which made a capital grand stand. Afterwards followed the grand national game with which we had especially asked the King to entertain us. This game, which the natives frequently indulge in when not prevented by any public mourning, is called “ Mamely dia manga,” “ kicking backwards,” or, more literally, “ striking blue with the sole of the foot.” It consists of parties kicking one another in the same manner as horses or other animals. This accomplishment is sedulously Cultivated from youth to manhood, and many become desperately expert in the amusement, if amusement it may be called, where the accidents of sprained or broken ankles and legs are not unfrequent accompaniments. Hundreds at a time occasionally join in this noisy sport, forming themselves into parties as at an English football match, and rushing upon each other with amazing force, each one seeking to maintain his advanced position and repel his antagonist by kicking backwards.

On this occasion a large circle was formed by the soldiers on guard at the palace, who sat down with their muskets upright between their knees. Rainikotavao’s slaves, who are kept in regular training for this amusement, stepped into the ring, stripped, with the exception of the salaka round their loins. One of these advanced from the rest and challenged the crowd. An antagonist was quickly found, stript, and brought forward. Advancing cautiously one towards the other, after several feints and counters, one turning with great rapidity nearly caught his antagonist with the heel of his foot in his face, he just missed his blow however, and was hurled violently to the ground by a kick in the small of his back, that settled him. Rainikotavao’s slave was the winner of this bout. Several other rounds came off with varied success, but the slaves of Rainikotavao were decidedly the best. There were twelve of them, and the whole twelve presently challenged any twelve of the crowd to fight, whereupon a general grand mélée took place, the end of which was that the twelve new-comers were beaten ignominiously off the field. The victory was so complete that no new combatants appeared until the victors offered to fight double their number; twenty-four of the by-standers then engaged them, but the well-trained twelve were again conquerors. The temper of the crowd now was roused, and they were with difficulty restrained from maltreating the twelve challengers, whom we handsomely rewarded for their prowess.

September 12th.—French treaty signed to-day at noon with much ceremony. There have been sundry diplomatic hitches which have kept it back. It was read aloud in Malagasy and' in French.

September 13th.—Attend the King’s morning levee. Afterwards make a portrait of Ra Haniraka’s wife. She is preparing her coronation robes. All the princesses of the blood are to wear scarlet, close-fitting bodices, and skirts long behind, so as to form a train. The bottom of the skirts are to be studded with gold spangles, for which they have been very anxious to obtain sovereigns, which are beaten out thin and cut into little spangles. It takes several sovereigns to ornament one dress in this way.

September 14th.—Walked to the north-west suburb and examined the tomb of the late Prime Minister and Commander-in-chief, Rainihiaro, the father of Rainivonihitriony, the present minister. The Fasanrainihiaro, as this large structure is called, consists of a square terrace of hewn stone, the sides of which are sixty feet long; a stone colonnade runs round it, with nine arches, supported on plain pillars. On the top of the terrace is a square space, enclosed by stone arches, on short, fantastic pillars. The usual head-stone stands at the eastern end. At the north and southern corners are two minarets. The whole structure stands in a large polygonal area with arched gateway, and is surrounded on three sides with the neatly thatched houses of the keepers of the tomb.

Monday, September \bth.—To-day we gave a grand pic-nic at Mahazaorivo, the pleasant grounds of which are well adapted for anything of that kind. There was an immense party, and the French in great force. We spread a sheet for a table-cloth on a shady plot of grass sheltered by a group of banyan-trees ; but this not being near large enough we spread plantain leaves at the lower end to eke it out. Meantime the cooks were at work and made huge dishes of soup, curry, and the unfailing rice. As soon as this was ready w^re sat down to the number of at least two hundred, the band playing at a short distance from us. It all went off very pleasantly and agreeably, but we found the way home tedious, and the steep ascent into the capital drove us all to our palanquins.

Tuesday, 16tli.—There was a great muster to-day of troops on the ground at Mahamasina, and a rehearsal of the arrangements that would be made on the coronation day. The country all around is dotted with tents, the camps of the soldiers and their families who have come from a distance.

September 19th.—To-day, for the first time, we were admitted inside the great palace, Manjaka Miadana, which has been closed ever since the late Queen’s death, and is now open to prepare for the coronation festivities.

We spent the morning in examining and measuring. It consists of three huge rooms, one over the other, and some very small ante-rooms at each end of them. Each story has an immense verandah, or balcony, the top one having projecting eaves like the points of an umbrella. The main building is 120 feet high. One solid piece of timber, of enormous girth at the base, rises to that height from the ground-floor in the very centre of the building. This spar, cut in the forest of Analamazaotra, has been alluded to before. The whole building is painted white from top to bottom, with the exception of the balustrades, which are red. This palace was built in 1841, by the late Queen; the smaller one, Trano vola, being built in 1846 for the present King Radama and his wife Rabodo.

North of the Trano vola is the tomb of the first Ra-dama, made of stone, covered with red cement. It rises in two successive terraces, the shape of it being a diamond, thirty feet long on the sides, and sixteen feet high. Above it is a small house with a verandah. In the interior of this house we were informed that there was wearing apparel, with wine and water on a table, and a chair, in case the matoaton, or ghost of the King, might wish to revisit the place of his ashes. The tomb is surrounded with high palisades on the top of which are spear-heads. Close to the tomb is a large tank and flower-garden, in which are two summer-houses, one being a glass house presented to the first Radama by George III. Within the palisades is a small barrier, used as a refuge during bull-baiting, which amusement was carried on here during the late Queen’s reign.

This afternoon all the prisoners concerned in the conspiracy to set Rambousalam on the throne were released by order of the King, and great rejoicing was caused by the general amnesty proclaimed on the occasion of the coronation. The King dined privately with us this evening.

Sunday, September 21.— This evening the whole country was illuminated for miles round, and the whole of the Betsimatatra valleys and plains were blazing with small bonfires. The streets were illuminated by men and boys holding torches and wisps of lighted straw. It was a glorious sight, and showed how thickly inhabited the surrounding country must be. At about nine o’clock a house near the palace took fire, and a fire in Antananarivo, where the streets are narrow, water scarce, and houses built of wood and straw, is no joke!

One bouse set fire to another. The drums beat an alarm through the streets. The guards assembled round the palace, headed by tbeir chiefs. The troops gathered at their rendezvous ; slaves hurried along with water in their jars and bamboos. The women from the burning houses were earned along shrieking on the backs of their slaves, followed by their female slaves skirling like sea-fowl. Above all the flames rose clear and high in the calm night. The smoke went up straight, for there was not a breath of wind, and the white palace stood out in the midst reflecting back the fierce red flames. Meantime, the neighbours and troops, led by the example of Lieut. Wadling (of Caldwell’s party), quickly pulled down the burning houses and those nearest to them, and the fire burnt itself out. The consequence might have been very disastrous had there been any wind. The King warmly expressed his gratitude for the prompt exertions of Lieut. Wadling.

Monday, September 22. — The coronation is now at hand, and as yet the question remains unsettled, as to whether the representatives of the English or of the French government are to take precedence on the occasion. The King determined that General Johnstone, as representative of the English nation, which had done so much for Madagascar, should stand on his right; but Dupre declared that if that were the case, he would leave Antananarivo, go straight to Paris, and return with the Emperor’s leave to bombard Tamatave and to bum the capital. The two consuls, Pakenham and Laborde, are to settle how the Europeans are to be placed, but it must be an edifying sight for the king of a half-civilized country to see the bitter jealousy between the two great allied powers.

The country was again illuminated this evening; the town, however, was in darkness, the fire of the preceding evening having deterred the people from repeating the experiment.

Tuesday, September 23.—To see Antananarivo on a fine winter morning is a magnificent sight at any time. Owing to its height the clouds settle upon it during the night, but when the sun rises its rays gradually dispel them, and they roll along the sides of the hills in long fleecy masses. As they moved off this morning, they disclosed the troops arranged in battalions, deploying into the lines previously marked out with banners, and—tell it not in Woolwich or Aldershot—with cords also, so as to enclose the area in front of the sacred stone. At the same time, from every path and road, from town, suburb, and village, as far as you could see in the far distance of the Betsima-tatra valley, lines of gaily-coloured crowds continually streamed, one and all hastening forward towards the sacred stone.

I do not think a single Hova in Antananarivo could have slept the previous night, for every house was crammed with people from the country, either guests or lodgers, and the strict curfew regulations were relaxed. There was a noise of revelling, singing, and chattering, the whole night; and all were so anxious not to be late and to secure good places, that I believe most of them dressed over night. Wretched were the unhappy slaves whose duty it would be to stay in the house and guard it whilst the family were absent at the great spectacle, and many, I suspect, played truant. In the town itself great confusion reigned. In front of every house the bearers and slaves in their best clothes prepared the filanzans, which were all decorated for the occasion, with silk, and cloth, and gold. As their occupants were carried off in them, many were the collisions between those going to, and those returning from, the palace, where everybody of any standing at all hastened at daylight to attend the levee and congratulate the popular prince on his coronation.

Notwithstanding that the French party had used all their influence to induce his Majesty to don a magnificent suit of royal robes brought from France, Radama persisted in his original intention of being crowned in English uniform, and wore accordingly that of a British field-marshal, which we had presented him with from the Queen. The Jesuits set about a report, that they had crowned the King privately, with all due Roman Catholic ceremony before daylight; but this I cannot believe. Radama is superior to superstition, and would, I am perfectly sure, never allow himself to be subject to any such imposition. The Jesuits, however, have spread such scandalous reports about the Bishop, Mr. Ellis, and the Nonconformist missionaries, that it is clear their veracity is not to be depended upon.

The King received all visitors at the Trano vola in plain morning clothes, and by seven o’clock the procession began to form outside the north gate of the palace. Meantime, the road from the palace to Mahamasina was lined with troops in single file, banners with the insignia of Radama II. being planted at intervals throughout the whole distance. The crowds still continued to pour in in the direction of the sacred stone ; and the crush ‘was such that with difficulty we passed in our filanzans up to the palace.

In the verandahs of the Trano vola were assembled most of the chiefs and high honours in the island, with whom we were now on tolerably intimate terms. The dresses sported on this occasion would have put to shame many a masquerade or fancy ball in Europe. The amount of bright-coloured velvet and gold embroidery was really astonishing.

In the court-yard were the singing women of the town and provinces, singing songs in praise of Radama’s forefathers, the clapping of hands being kept up so vigorously as almost to overpower the efforts of the King’s band, who, twenty-five in number, played very accurately selections of marches, and other pieces of music. The singing women were all in white, and squatted like wild fowls to the number of two or three hundred, in the furthest corner of the court-yard.

While the King was dressing we kicked our heels outside, impatient of delay, for we had had no breakfast, and there seemed no prospect of any. It must have been at least eleven o’clock when the King appeared in his uniform; he was speedily joined by the Queen, who was got up royally indeed, but my knowledge of ladies’ toilette technicalities is too limited for me to attempt to describe it. The King mounted his horse, and the Queen her palanquin, and, accompanied by her little adopted daughter, preceded the King. The whole procession moved on, the members of the English and French missions following behind the King, who seemed rather nervous on his spirited horse, which was fretted by the slow pace at which the pageant was obliged to move, and had to be led by a groom. Laborde and I walked down together, being unable to get our palanquins in the crowd. The remainder of the day’s proceedings shall he told in the words of Mr. Caldwell, who gives the following graphic account of the coronation ceremonies, published in the “Commercial Gazette,” December 1862.

“ The long-expected 23rd September was ushered in at grey dawn by the roar of all the numerous cannon so profusely scattered over the rock on which Antananarivo stands, and which waked from their heavy slumbers the people not usually remarkable for early rising. The King having told us the previous evening, that he would like to start early, if possible, to avoid the hot sun, and having fixed seven o’clock as the hour at which we should come to the palace, we were there with true British punctuality, and followed in a few minutes by the British Embassy. As we walked up from our quarters, close by the palace, we found the main street lined with soldiers in red coatees, white trousers, and shakos; and outside the arch leading into the palace yard, a very large assemblage of officers of the 14th and inferior ranks, including many of the ministers, judges, and other functionaries. They were all dressed in new uniforms of very good taste, many of them French diplomatic or civil-service gold-embroidered suits, made to order at Paris, and a few home-made suits of scarlet cloth, or richly coloured velvet, in gold native embroidery of superior quality, and in excellent taste. The palace gates were wide open, no sentries with crossed arms impeding free passage to-day; and inside were drawn up on two sides of the square a considerable number of troops, with the King’s band, who were furnished with the instruments just presented to the King by Her Majesty Queen Victoria, and called after her ‘ The Victoria Band.’

“ On our arrival, we were conducted inside the stockade, surrounding the Silver Palace, where we found assembled most of the King’s and Queen’s households, and paid our respects to his Majesty, who had not yet begun to dress for the ceremony. Within this enclosure also came the 13th Honours, and the officers of the palace, all likewise in handsome uniforms, more plain and elegant than those of last year; the commander-in-chief, Rainilaiarivony, in a velvet tunic embroidered in gold, that would have done credit to Bond Street; and our friend Rainikiotava, Minister of Public Works, staggering under a heavy brass helmet, profusely ornamented with imitation gems of every size and colour, which, after being duly admired, he exchanged with eagerness for a lighter cocked hat, apparently quite satisfied with having the unique helmet carried behind him by an aide-de-camp.

“ The body-guard of Menamaso were also on duty inside, dressed in Lincoln green tunics, with red facings and red shakos, each man armed with a spear, the blade and staff of which were entirely made of silver.

“ About eight o’clock the French mission, the English and French Consuls, and the rest of the foreigners arrived ; Commodore Dupré wearing a plain black dress suit, having sunk his naval rank in the superior one of plenipotentiary of his Imperial Majesty, but decorated with the Legion of Honour, the Bath, and his other crosses. The King then retired to dress, soon afterwards appearing in a full-dress British field-marshal’s uniform, which had been presented to him a few days before from Queen Victoria, and which fitted him as if made on the spot, and her Majesty then coming up with her personal attendants, every one began to await the move.

“At about half-past nine the King mounted a handsome Egyptian horse, just brought up by Mr. Lambert. The Queen came next in very elegant Parisian-made gilt palanquin, lined with rich crimson damasked silk, her little

84 MADAGASCAR.

daughter at her feet, and a large and richly ornamented scarlet umbrella fixed over her head. She was dressed in a white satin skirt and rich crimson coronation robe, embroidered with gold, a present from the Empress of the French, and looked remarkably well. She was carried by eight men at a time ; all her bearers dressed like her body-guard, but with caps instead of shakos. Just behind came General Johnstone, Commodore Dupre, and M. Laborde, the French Consul, in palanquins, and Mr. Lambert on horseback, and a few of the principal officers, and then the guard formed up, leaving out indiscriminately all the other Europeans, official or visitors, the Hovas, and a prodigious crowd of persons, who had to get through the archway as best they could. The greatest good humour, however, prevailed; English, French, and native uniforms, and black coats, were mixed up in one dense mass.

“ From the palace gate to the Champ de Mars below, about a mile and three quarters following the contour of the road, the way was lined with troops, and at each hundred yards, was on either side a mast with a streamer, white bordered with red, and in the field R. R. (Radama Rex). As the cortege passed on, the roar of artillery began, and continued during the time it was in motion ; the only halt being made at Andahalo, a large open triangular place, about three-quarters of a mile from the palace, and one third of the way down the mountain, where the King dismounted, and stood upon some traditionary stone there for a few minutes.

“ The procession arrived below at about half-past ten. The King, Queen, the nobles, and the English and French ambassadors, and those who had got within the guards, mounting the steps that led up to the dais erected over the 6acred stone, a very handsome and elegant pavilion, designed and executed by the French Consul, M. Laborde.

So great was the crowd below, and so difficult to get through, that the rest, of both English and French missions, and all the visitors, could only get up about a quarter of an hour later; hut they thereby gained the advantage of a better view of the moment when the King took his crown and placed it on his head, and then crowned the Queen. He then advanced to the front, drew his sword, and addressed the people in a spirited and stirring speech, which appeared to elicit unqualified approbation from his people. As, even at the time, this speech was much talked of, I made particular inquiries about it, and am enabled, on the testimony of the most trustworthy Hova nobles, and some most intelligent and educated Malagasy gentlemen, not Hovas, whom all those at Antananarivo will know as high-class men, to give a flat contradiction to the statements, that he ever mentioned in it that he was King by the will of God, and the consent of the European powers. What he did say, according to those who understood the language, was to the following effect. He was now King of Madagascar, not because he had tried to be so (a phrase evidently pointed at the reports so industriously circulated by some parties, and even printed, accusing him of being privy to several conspiracies against his mother the late queen), but because God had willed it, and that he intended to govern his people with kindness and justice. That such as they had found Prince Rakoto, merciful, tender of shedding blood, and even solicitous of enlightening his country, and advancing its material interests, so they would find him now as Radama II. Such a declaration would, indeed, touch the hearts of the dense multitude around him, so long and so cruelly oppressed in former times, and frequently, in all probability, ill used in the Queen’s name, without her knowledge, by wicked and rapacious officers, who turned her known severity and iron will to their own advantage, under pretence of acting by her directions. During this part of the ceremony, a royal salute was fired from some brass field-pieces, cast many years ago at Soatsimananapiorani, which would have done credit to the best European foundry. On their way down the previous day, I had stopped one as it was being taken down from the arsenal in the palace, and examined it minutely.

“ To a stranger who did not understand the language, the most interesting part of the ceremony, the homage to the King, now began. For some reason or other, the original programme of fixed places previously appointed, both in the procession, and at the ceremony, was not carried out, and every one found a place for himself as best he could. As it was fearfully hot in the raised gallery on the right, appropriated to the ministers and visitors, I got round to the back of the dais, upon the wall surrounding the sacred stone. Here some of the officers round the royal pair made me advance till I was close behind the Queen’s chair. General Johnstone and Captain Anson came to the same place; Commodore Dupré and Messrs. Laborde and Lambert were on the edge of the wall, on the right hand side; and Mr. Pakenham, the English Consul, found his way into the ladies’ gallery on the left, where Mrs. Pakenham was in the midst of a large assemblage of the highest noble ladies of the Hovas, many being dressed from head to foot in scarlet, and with even scarlet boots and scarlet parasols, the peculiar privilege of wearing which, belongs to those who have royal blood in their veins. The King’s chair alone was allowed to rest upon the sacred stone, the Queen being on the surrounding wall, none (under pain of death in the last reign) daring to touch this peculiar talisman, which is, apparently, a rough granite stone, accidentally cropping up in the plain, about seven feet high, five wide,’ and surrounded with a circular wall of four feet thick.

In front and at the back of the wall, were steps leading up to the flat summit of it; and on either side, running north and south, were the two long uncovered galleries of 150 feet each, already mentioned. The front faced therefore to the west, towards the artificial lake and island of Anosy, where the late Queen’s summer-house is situated, and a broad avenue had been left right in front about 250 feet long. The rest of the space on either side had been partitioned off with ropes for the different tribes, and, including the soldiers present, there cannot have been much less than 100,000 people on the plain. The middle avenue, up which we had come, was densely crowded also, and it was along it that each of the chiefs and nobles came to present his hasina, or tribute of a dollar, and made a speech to the King, the dollar being received by the King’s private secretary Ramaniraka or his assistant, and dropped into one of the two boxes covered with red cloth, at the top of the wall. Among others who crowded near the sacred stone, were the idol keepers with their idols, carried on long poles, and generally covered over with scarlet or other cloth; and apparently a mass of something or another without any definite shape. These, however, the King paid no attention to (though neither did he affront them), notwithstanding their pressing up so close to the platform that they invaded the place of, and got mixed up with, the band of Les Enfants de la Ressource, directed by the Jesuit Missionaries, who also had a banner on a high pole, as we see in processions here. At length, about half-past twelve, when chieftains from all parts of the kingdom, North, South, East, and West, Sakalava, Betsileo, Menabé, Betsim-asaraka, Betanimena, and many others whose names I do not recollect, had made their submission, the procession reformed, and proceeded to climb the hill again. Here the same scrambling for places again took place, and all went on merrily till the party reached Andahalo, where the King’s horse reared, and his Majesty, though an excellent horseman, would have received a severe fall had he not been caught in the arms of Mr. Eardley Wilmot, of her Majesty’s 5th Fusiliers, who, not having been able to find his palanquin, was walking immediately behind the King. The procession, after a slight stoppage, proceeded to the palace, many of us falling out, as we passed our residences, to take some breakfast, and change, before going to the banquet at half-past three.

“ The coronation banquet was served in the large hall of the large palace, which was now first publicly opened since Queen Ranavalo’s death, although we had been allowed to examine it minutely on the 19th, when the preparations for the banquet had been commenced. It is a really magnificent building, though seldom seen to full advantage, from being surrounded on all sides by other buildings, or by walls, which obstruct a direct view of the lower story ; and the best point to judge of its noble elevation is from the stone archway; on the north side of the yard, though the north and south facades are smaller than the east and west one, the front being, in fact, the western one. It is built altogether of wood (dragged from forty to ninety miles distance with prodigious labour), on the plans and under the personal direction of the late Queen, and was completed in the short space of three years. It consists of three principal stories and three attics, besides the top of the roof; and each floor is, according to the Hova custom, divided into one large central room, lighted only by a door in the west, and two smaller side rooms or narrow closets; the lower story is rather low for its size, but the first floor room is as finely proportioned as it is possible to be.

“The tables were laid in the form of the letter II, and the principal guests arranged as follows, no native under the rank of 15th Honour being admitted to the banquet.

“Covers were laid for 120 people, and the repast was admirably served. In front of the King and principal guests were the large silver-gilt flagon and six cups to match, presented by the British Mission on the part of Queen Victoria, and the table was adorned with many native works of silver, and two handsome gold vases from the Silver Palace, and on the sideboard were, amongst other ornaments, two silver vases, four feet four inches high, all of native manufacture. The viands were of excellent quality and abundant, and the wines very fair, and for the first time we saw locusts and water-beetles served on a Malagasy table. The first toast, the King’s health and the prosperity of his kingdom, was proposed by Commodore Dupré, to which his Majesty replied by the healths of Queen Victoria and the Emperor of the French, after which General Johnstone proposed her Majesty Queen Rabodo, and the toasts were brought to an end by the King coupling in a short speech, said to have been full of humour, the healths of his Minister for Foreign Affairs and of the two Consuls present. The banquet was over about six o’clock.

“ As soon as the Queen had retired for a short time, and changed her robe for the crimson velvet mantle sent her by Queen Victoria, dancing commenced; the ball being opened by the King, who danced with one of the ladies of the court, and the Queen, who danced with the Commodore; after a gay and pleasant evening, during which both English and French vied with each other and with the Court in keeping up the gaieties of the day, every one retired at about half-past nine, after drinking the health of their Majesties.

“ The 24th September was spent in arranging for our proximate departure until half-past four, when all the visitors again repaired to the palace, to witness an exhibition of fireworks on the lake below from the balcony of the palace. General Johnstone gave his arm to the Queen, the King and each gentleman also conducting a lady, and ascending to the upper floor which commands a view of from twenty to fifty miles in every direction. The only fault of this pageant was, that the fireworks were commenced a quarter of an hour too soon, at sunset; but they were of excellent quality, notwithstanding that two years had elapsed since they were brought out from France. The evening again closed with dancing, the company retiring at the same early hour of nine.”

After the coronation, the English and French Missions left the capital with as little delay as possible, and, reaching the coast without any remarkable incident, embarked on board the “ Gorgon ” and “ Hermione.” The writer accompanied his party, having given up all thoughts of remaining behind on the staff of the King of Madagascar.

Chapter VI

Madagascar and the Malagasy, by S. P. Oliver